 The
variety and extent of Rhodes coastline make it possible for bathers to
enjoy an infinite number of different places to swim, all of them lapped
by warm, crystal clear water and equipped with all modern facilities.
An
around-the-island tour provides a chance to view some of the wonderful
variations of Rhodes's scenery. The sights described below, with the exception
of Ialisos and Kamiros, are not of significant historical or cultural importance,
but if you get bored with relaxing, these places provide a pleasant diversion.
The route traces the island counterclockwise from Rhodes city, with a number
of suggested sorties into the interior. Even a cursory glance at a map
of Rhodes will explain the many zigs and zags in this itinerary. Keep in
mind that not all roads are equal and that all-terrain vehicles are required
for some of the detours suggested below. Rhodian rental-car companies usually
stipulate that their standard vehicles be driven only on fully paved roads.
Ialisos
was the staging ground for the four major powers that were to control the
island. The ancient ruins and monastery on Mount Filerimos reflect the
presence of two of these groups. The Dorians ousted the Phoenicians from
Rhodes in the 10th century B.C. (An oracle had predicted that white ravens
and fish swimming in wine would be the final signs before the Phoenicians
were annihilated. The Dorians, quick to spot opportunity, painted enough
birds and threw enough fish into wine jugs so that the Phoenicians left
without raising their arms.) Most of the Dorians left Ialisos for other
parts of the island; many settled in the new city of Rhodes. During the
3rd to 2nd centuries B.C., the Dorians constructed a temple to Athena and
Zeus Polios, whose ruins are still visible, below the monastery. Walking
south of the site will lead you to a well-preserved 4th-century B.C. fountain.
The
ruins at Kamiros are much more extensive than those at nearby Ialisos,
perhaps because this city remained an important outpost after the new Rhodes
was completed in 408 B.C. The site is divided into two segments: the upper
porch and the lower valley. The porch served as a place of religious practice
and provided the height needed for the city's water supply. Climb up to
the top and you'll see two aqueducts, which assured the Dorians a year-round
supply of water. The small valley contains ruins of homes and streets,
as well as the foundations of a large temple. The site is in a good enough
state of preservation to imagine what life in this ancient Doric city was
like more than 2,000 years ago. (Think about wearing a swimsuit under your
clothes: There's a good stretch of beach across from the site, where there
are some rooms to let, a few tavernas, and the bus stop.) The site is open
Tuesday through Sunday from 8:30am to 3pm. Kamiros is 34 kilometers (21
miles) southwest of Rhodes city, with regular bus service.
 Driving
south along the western coast from Kamiros, you'll come to the late 15th-century
Knights castle of Kastellos (Kritinias Castle), dominating the sea
below. From here, heading south and then cutting up to the northeast, make
your way inland to Embonas, the wine capital of the island and home
to several tavernas famed for their fresh meat barbecues. This village
is on the tour-group circuit, and numerous tavernas offer feasts accompanied
by live music and folklore performances.
The
beaches south of Lindos, from Lardos Bay to Plimmiri (26km/16 miles
in all), are among the best on Rhodes, especially the short stretch between
Lahania and Plimmiri. At the southernmost tip of the island, for those
who seek off-the-beaten-track places, is Prasonisi (Green Island),
connected to the main island by a narrow sandy isthmus, with waves and
world-class windsurfing on one side and calm waters on the other.
From
Lindos
to Faliraki, there are a number of sandy, sheltered beaches with
relatively little development. Faliraki Beach is the island's most developed
beach resort, offering every possible vacation distraction imaginable--from
bungee jumping to laser clay shooting. Faliraki is located at the
north east part of Rhodes , about 14 km from the city of Rhodes and about
10km from the airport.
North
of Faliraki, the once-healing thermal waters of Kalithea,
praised for their therapeutic qualities by Hippokrates, have long since
dried up--but this small bay, only 10 kilometers (6.2 miles) from Rhodes
city, is still a great place to swim and snorkel. Mussolini built a fabulous
art-deco spa here; its derelict abandonment retains an odd grandeur evoking
an era thankfully long gone. |
