 Central
Laconia
Sparta
(Sparti) is the capital of the prefecture.
A
simple town, built in the middle of the Evrotas river valley, in the same
site where the ancient city stood.
The
plain of Lakonia spreads out around Sparta, green and cool.
A
few kilometres distant is the ascent for Taigetos. Snowy peaks and precipitous
rocks.
The
succession of villages makes you want to wander and poke about them.
Every
instant is different. You need love and an adventurous spirit to walk this
land.
The
Byzantine state of Mistras
As
you approach Mistras (5 km from Sparta) you feel as though you're making
a pilgrimage to Byzantine Greece.
Going
up the hill, you enter through the castle gate, which welcomes you to wander
for a while, delighted, through the narrow lanes of this once invincible
fortress.
Laconian
Mani
A
barren land. Rocks, stone walls and prickly pears.
Hard
stones, naked hillsides. Bays and coves torn by the sea and the wind.
A
series of mountain villages higher up.
The
towers of the Mani are well-known. Made of stone and fearless souls. You
see one tower, then another and another.
Later
heavy silence falls and you see Itillo before you.
Deserted
beaches for solitary roaming.
Opposite
stand the ruins of the fortress of Kelefa.
Further
on beneath a steep cliff lies the little harbour of Limeni.
High
above looms Taigetos, its peaks forbidding and inaccessible. The haunt
of the goddess Artemis.
Areopolis.
Sharp rocks and white stones.
A
harsh and remote landscape. It takes its name from Ares (Mars), god of
war.
Pirgos
Dirou. Towers everywhere. The most famous of all is the one belonging
to the Sklavounakos family.
The
Diros caves. Many-splendoured colours. Stalactites and stalagmites form
figures in a tight embrace.
Southeastern
Laconia
The
farthest finger of the Peloponnese.
The
Laconic gulf on the west, the Mirtoo sea on the east.
Along
both coasts and at some distance from the sea there are scattered villages.
One
beach after another and then another even larger.
Everything
baked by the sun and basted by the sea.
On
the southern coast of the peninsula, looking onto the Mirtoo sea, stands
the former Byzantine-Venetian fortress-state of Monemvassia, on its rocky
promontory.
From
afar it looks as if it could be an island.
In
Greek Monemvassia means one entrance: the long causeway joining it to the
mainland was and is the only access to the rock.
Time
stopped here in the Middle Ages.
Castles
and ramparts, old mansions, little houses, narrow lanes paved with stone
slabs, churches with crumbling facades, old low archways, semi-destroyed
stairways.
Every
little detail calls up memories of Byzantium and the Venetians.
Apses,
escutcheons, imperial marble thrones, Byzantine icons (Christ in chains)
give one the impression of an imaginary city, untouched by modern times.
This
delight in the past overcomes you and conjures up visions of princes and
emperors, knights and bishops.
For
Monemvassia is a revelation that leaves one with a heavy heart and a deep
nostalgia, a feeling that one would like to stay here forever.
North
of Monemvassia the region of Zaraka is full of medieval villages, built
high in the mountains alongside ruined castles, churches and houses, with
names like Harakas, Rihia, Gerakas, Ag,Dimitris, Glotsoliand Kiparissi.
Sixty-one kilometres from Monemvassia across the peninsula lies the seaside
market town of Neapolis, the last port of the Spartans on the Laconic gulf.
Beaches,
bays, springs, plane and walnut trees (Paradisi), caves lined with stones
that look like coloured woven fabrics (Kastania), taverns, cafes, people
with warm smiles -- it would be easy to surrender to a life of nothing
but this.
Opposite
Neapolis is the islet of Elafonissi, a dream snatched from the South Seas.
Swimming,
fishing, sand, sun, twilight, moonlight, octopus in red wine, fish stew
and seafood are the way of life here.
On
the horizon beyond lies Kithira, the isle of Eros, the legendary birthplace
of the goddess Aphrodite (Venus).
From
the moment that you penetrate into the interior of the island you will
discover ancient temples, Byzantine churches and monasteries, Venetian
castles, caves with stalactites and stalagmites and miniature lakes, villages
with the distinctive architecture of the lonian islands, pebbly beaches,
sandy beaches, multicoloured shells, greenery, hills and countless birds.
All
giving the feeling of a world where happiness and the joy of life reign
supreme.
The
caique stops its engine at Antikithira, a barren rock in the middle of
the sea.
The
island is famous because of its shores the wonderful statue of the Ephebos
of Antikithira was found.
Here
you will spend your days and nights in the embrace of the sea, in company
with the sun and the moon and the sea breeze.
Maybe
one day a modern-day Aphrodite will rise from the sea foam. |
