Pirgos
is the capital of the prefecture of Eleia. Its chief landmarks are the
two exquisite neoclassical buildings designed by Schiller, the Municipal
Market and the Apollo Municipal Theatre.In the evenings the residents of
this little town congregate in the flagstone paved main square lined by
cafes and pastry shops. In the narrow alleyways, small tavernas and grills
serve up local delicacies, savoury tidbits from Eleia's fertile soil.
Ancient
Olympia lies 10 km. east of Pirgos, in a valley between wooded Mt.
Kronos, the Alfios river and its tributary, the Kladeos.
Eleia's
valleys
The
soil is fertile here, the land blessed, the fields endless.
Every
corner is cultivated with vines, olive groves, corn, wheat, vegetables.
Every
place well tended, nothing wild.
It's
nice to fall asleep next to a threshing floor or on a sandy beach.
Zacharo
is a market town enveloped in pines and olive trees bordered by an enormous
stretch of beach with white sand and sparkling water.
Heading
north you come to Kaiafas, a well known spa, and the islet of Agia
Ekaterini, in the middle of a small harbour.
On
the eastern shore, the famous mineral waters gush from two caves formed
by crevices in the rocks.
The
place is strangely beautiful, delightful, though the odor of the springs
does detract somewhat.
Legend
maintains that the centaur Nessus washed his wound here after being struck
by Herakles' poison arrow, and that is why the water smells. Kaiafas is
not only sulphurous springs, however; It is also pine trees, sand and sea
and a long, long shore.
It's
hard indeed to draw yourself away such a sea.
But
to continue our tour, you pass the Alfeios and its renowned dam,
and then arrive at medieval Katakolo, in the district of ancient
Pheia (Fia).In the bay of Agios Andreas, atop a hill, are the remains of
a fortress called Pontikokastro (mouse castle), built by the illehardouins.
Next
the road proceeds to the village of Skafidia and the monastery of
the same name. A Venetian tower, dating from 1686, stands inside the monastery
garden.
Stop
and eat fresh fish at one of the trim, newly painted taverns in the vicinity,
where you can watch the sea for hours.
Chairs
and tables shaded by trees or grape arbours await you.
Amaliada
is the name of a new town, built in the middle of an emerald green field
planted with olives and grapevines.
The
monastery of Frankavilla, erected during the Frankish occupation, lies
2 km. away.Another monastery with echoes of the Franks is Agios Nikolaos
of the Frankopidima. It took its name from the perilous leap (pidima) made
by a desperate knight to escape his pursuers.
North
of Amaliada the road branching to the right takes you to the ruins of Ancient
Elis. Elis was where the athletes used to train before taking part
in the Olympic Games.Excavations have brought to light a theatre, traces
of the Gymnasion and two shrines to Aphrodite.
Continuing
on, you come to the Pinios dam, one of the largest earth darns in Europe.
Returning
to the main road, you pass Gastouni. The signpost indicates Andravida
to the north and Kilini to the west.Kilini is connected by ferryboat
with Zakinthos.
Six
kilometres further north is where the Franks had their castle, the fortress
of Hlemoutsi (Clairmont), the most beautiful and best preserved of all
the castles in the Peloponnese. It was built by bin 1220.
A
few kilometres beyond Hlemoutsi, are the hot springs of Kilini, a well
known spa, developed by the G.N.T.O., with hotels, organized camping grounds
and mineral waters. The waters bubble out at a temperature of 25.5 degrees
Centigrade and are recommended for asthma, rheumatic and skin diseases.
The
buildings are spread out among pine and eucalyptus trees.
A
truly tranquil and pleasant spot, where the sun's iridescent rays shine
benignly and where the cicadas buzz nonstop.
This
place is paradise for young and old, brimming with joy and health.
Leaving
the spa and heading south, you reach Arkoudi, Glifa -- with its
fine sand -- and Bouka, while towards the north lie Lehena
and Manolada, noted for their watermelons and cheeses.
From
Manolada the road, cutting through a thick pine forest that extends to
the water's edge, comes out at Kounoupeli, identified with ancient
Yrmine, mentioned by Homer.
A
rock juts out of the sea from which more mineral waters gush.
Above
on the promontory you can make out traces Mycenaean and Frankish remains.
A
little further, you can see a small tavern, where you can seat looking
the sea, for hours. |
