| Patras
is the capital of the region or prefecture.It owes its name to Patreas,
chief of the Achaians.The city is among the most important in Greece, and
the largest in the Peloponnese.It is also a major transportation center,
linking the country with Italy and the Peloponnese with the lonian islands
The
coasts of Achaia are a delightful concoction of picturesque villages, indented
shores, gardens and shady trees.A treat for the eye.
While
the heart of Achaia may be its mountains, one cannot fail to hear its soul
in the murmur of the sea.Leaving Corinth, you take the coast road all the
way to Patras. It's more scenic than the National Road, since it's right
on the water's edge.
You
reach Akrata, a coastal village, set in lush surroundings on a crystal
clear sea. This was the site of ancient Aigai.
Next
come Platanos, Trapeza, verdant hamlets, and Diakofto.
This
is where the funicular railway leaves for Kalavrita.
Continuing
along the coast road, you see the roofs of one village after another poking
through the unbroken green of the hillsides.
Stop
for a while at Egion.
In
this town, which is divided into an upper and a lower section, the old
district near the shore is interesting; an enormous plane tree noted by
Pausanias on his travels still reigns supreme.
The
parade of villages continues.
Longos,
with its pebbly beach, Lambiri, with its lovely shore, Psathopirgos,
a pretty hamlet.
Each
one has its special role to play, its distinguishing feature.
And
all of them have a little taverna or a quaint cafe where you can relax
for a while.
Right
before Patras comes Rio, a transportation hub, uniting the Peloponnese
with Central Greece and Epiros by car ferry.
Jutting
towards the sea, the old Venetian fortress, the "Castle of the Morea",
faded and ravaged by time, is the first thing to strike the eye.
Traversing
Patras, continue along the old Patras-Pirgos road. It is in good condition
with a view of the sea and passes endless stretches of sandy beach (Araxos)
and charming villages lapped in greenery.
This
little jaunt ends at Kalogria in time for an afternoon dip and a
rest on its white sand
Kalavrita
First
Itinerary
One
can get to Kalavrita by car from Patras, the coastal village of Trapeza
or by funicular from Diakofto.The Patras-Kalavrita road passes by vineyards,
olive groves and small, well-wooded hills.
At
a certain point the landscape begins to change, becoming more mountainous
as the ascent to the magical mountains begins.
Aromatic
scents and cool air win the visitor over immediately.
Plane
trees and walnuts stand out to the right and left of the road.
Halandritsa:
stone houses, courtyards, narrow lanes, a ruined Frankish castle, countless
churches, bell towers with a Western touch.
The
heart of Achaia begins to pound.
Next
come the villages of Katarrahtis, Kalanistra, Kalanos. Mihas, perched
on a hillside thick with walnut trees, catches your eye.
You
pass Kato and Ano Vlassia, traditional hamlets built in 1660, and
stop for a while at Flamboura, A dirt road leads to the Monastery of Makellaria.
Back
on the main road, any one of the many side roads you choose will take you
to some forest, gorge or Byzantine monastery. Kalavrita lies ahead.
These
places and their myriad tiny villages are difficult to describe.
To
get to know them, you need to get out of your car, walk through the streets,
visit their castles and churches, mingle with the people, take a drink
with them and clink your glasses in a toast. Only then will you hear the
heart of Achaia beat.
Second
Itinerary
The
trip
on the funicular railway resembles a journey in a dream.
Once
the train has left the tranquil, peaceful landscape of Diakofto, it delves
into the deep gorge of the Vouraikos river that runs down from Helmos.Before
long the little train is clutching the rails with its "teeth".
The
higher you go the better you appreciate nature's silent work. Enormous
rocks, boulders gnawed by time, trees hanging from the mountain slopes
call forth awe and admiration.
The
first stop -- pause for breath -- is at Trekilia for a quick cup
of coffee; then on to the village of Zahlorou at an altitude of
642 m.
This
traditional village possesses a rare natural beauty.
The
town of Kalavrita, the third stop on the funicular, is spread out on the
slopes of Helmos at an altitude of 750 meters.
Numerous
tall plane trees offer their welcome shade.
They
line the streets like an arcade.
The
charming houses, streets, trees all make you feel right at home.
The
town exudes tranquillity. Just outside town a Venetian fortress, "the castle
of Orea", stands atop a bluff.
Mega
Spileo
One
can reach this monastery by road from the village of Trapeza or by footpath
from Zahlorou.It feels as though the hand of God is leading you to the
monastery.As soon as you arrive, you stand speechless with the grandeur
of nature.The view is a perfect gift-offering from the monastery. You'
re 1000 meters above sea level.Behind you an enormous building resembling
a fortress rises to eight storeys within a gaping cavern in a towering
cliff; this is the legendary monastery.
Built
in 362, it has since remained firmly wedged in Greek history.
The
17th century monastery church has wonderful, if damaged frescoes, mosaic
floors and a bronze door with relief decoration.
The
icon of the Virgin Mary holding the Christ Child in her right arm is a
relief made of wax and mastich, attributed to St. Luke.
The
monastery museum contains holy relies and treasures, an icon screen of
great age, carved wooden crosses, venerable manuscripts, Gospels, and the
like.
The
silhouettes of the monks with their long hair, full beards and erect figures
testify that another way of life -- the ascetic way, so different from
our own -- reigns here.
Agia
Lavra
The
monastery of Agia Lavra 5 km. from Kalavrita, is built at a point which
commands a view of the whole Vouraikos river valley.
Constructed
in 961 at an altitude of 961 meters, it once also had 961 monks. It was
here, from the present building dating from 1689, that the call for "freedom
of death" first rang out in 1821, commanding Greeks to defend their heritage
and throw off the Turkish oppressors.
The
revolutionary banner was raised in the garden under the historic plane
tree.The monastery church has a fine carved icon screen, frescoes damaged
by fire and the icon of Agia Lavra.
Apart
from the revolutionary banner, the relies include a very old Gospel, a
gift of Catherine the Great; gold crosses; reliquaries and a valuable collection
of early Christian and ancient objects.
On
a hill opposite, a monument to the heroes of the Revolution of 1821 looks
down over the monastery
The
cave of the lakes - Kastria
A
half-hour's drive from Kalavrita, near the village of Kastria, will bring
you to the cave of the lakes,A narrow passage takes you into a first small
cave that broadens into an enormous cavern 2 kilometers long with 15 miniature
lakes formed by natural dams.
The
stalagmites and stalactites with their extraordinary shapes, the iridescent
colours, the immense boulders, the small waterfalls and the tiny lakes
with their natural dams stimulate and delight the imagination.
And
now let's take a trip to the cool green villages where one can see antiquities
(Klitoria, Likouria) or vestiges of Frankish and Byzantine rule.Each
village has a precious gift to offer, something truly beautiful.
You'
II find so many springs on the way.Here and there wayside shrines.Sometimes
a flock of sheep will block your passage on the road and you' II hear the
cautionary growl of the sheepdog, but the friendly nod of the shepherd
will accompany you to the nearest hamlet.
Near
by the village Pagrati, there is the famous "vine branch" of Pausanias,
with very big branches, dating back to thousands of years.
After
that you' II spy villages climbing up a ravine (Aroania, 930 m.),
others smothered in fir trees (Kertezi, 1050 m.).
The
houses are all made of stone, with roofs of tile.
If
you look hard, you' II even find traditional houses with towers.
All
the villages have their main square, fountain with gushing water, little
cafe or tavern.Kertezi is renowned for its bean soup and glorious wine.
And
each place has a story to tell, whether about its Byzantine church and
miraculous icon, its local castle or distant myth.
Whoever
you meet will greet you like a dear old friend.
And
it won't take long before you really are friends. It will be hard to drag
yourself away.
The
country folk are a warm presence in Achaia.
Their
tables are laden with bread, olives, cheese, wine and kindness |
